The body of celebrated British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja has been recovered from Broad Peak following a deadly avalanche in northern Pakistan.
Keep reading to learn more.
43-year-old Nirmal Purja was leading an expedition of 10 climbers on the world’s 12th-highest mountain when the avalanche struck around midday on Thursday (July 30).
In an update on Sunday, the Alpine Club of Pakistan said Purja’s body had been found at an altitude of about 5,700 meters (18,700 feet). Three other bodies were also located, though their identities have not yet been confirmed.
Purja, a former member of the British Army and Royal Marines, became internationally known in 2019 after climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters in just 189 days, breaking the previous record by more than seven years.
The achievement was documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
Purja’s final messages before the avalanche
Despite being halfway up Broad Peak, Purja took the time to respond to a message from NDTV reporter Vishnu Som with what is now believed to be his final recorded communication.
In the voice note, he said:
“Hey brother, greetings and namaste. Right now, I am on Camp 2 of Broad Peak which is among 8,000-metre (26,247 foot) mountains.
“I am now running for my 58th summit of 8,000-metre peaks, which is the highest in the world. I just opened the internet to check the weather forecast. But this message got downloaded as well.
“I will be in touch after the summit. But if there is anything, please leave the message, what you are thinking [about the event where I had invited him]… all that. I will also be connecting with Vicky who manages all my diaries and stuff. That will make it easier to move things forward.
“Hope you guys are well and it’s great to be connected. Thank you guys and greetings from Camp 2 on Broad Peak. Ciao Ciao.”
Purja also shared what has become his final Instagram post before the avalanche, reflecting on his latest climbing goal.
“This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits.
“That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here, only one remains ‘Cho Oyu’. Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.
“This wasn’t planned. The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.”
“My only battle was against the man I was yesterday,” he continued. “Every single day, pushing my own limits. Because the moment you look sideways: at what others are doing, saying, achieving: you drift off your compass.
“Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely. They criticised me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible.
“If you haven’t seen what that took, watch 14 Peaks on Netflix. That film is the unfiltered truth.
“I was there doing multiple rescues of climbers left behind by other expeditions, raising the funds myself, leading from the front, fixing our own lines, dealing with the Shishapangma permit with China, being at hospitals for my mum’s operation and so much more. And now? Now I’m heading for the double without oxygen: triple in total. The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening.”
Expedition company confirms multiple deaths
Purja’s expedition company, Elite Expeditions, confirmed that he was among 10 people who died in the avalanche.
In a statement shared on Instagram on Saturday, the company wrote,“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of this expedition sadly did not survive.
“Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.
“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can erase the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve.”
Tributes pour in
Purja served in the British military for 16 years, including a decade in the special forces.
He was also known for helping television personality Spencer Matthews search for the remains of his brother, Michael Matthews, the youngest Briton to summit Mount Everest, who disappeared on the mountain in 1999.
Before Purja’s body was recovered, Matthews shared a tribute on Saturday, saying he was praying “for a miracle.”
“The mountains inspire us with their beauty but they also demand immense respect.
“Every person who ventures into that world understands the risks, yet they go anyway, driven by curiosity, purpose, passion and a deep love for the places few will ever experience.
“The news from Broad Peak is heartbreaking. So many lives, families, friends and teammates now facing unimaginable loss. Our thoughts are with everyone affected by this tragedy. May those who have been lost be remembered not only for how they died, but for how they lived, the courage they showed, and the lived they touched. Rest in peace. To those not yet found, we pray for a miracle.”
British adventurer Bear Grylls also paid tribute on Instagram.
“Heartbreaking news for so many climbers around the world who had a relationship with this remarkable and unique man. We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit.”
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